Wednesday, December 28, 2016

Jack Huff made thousands of climbs, 1 for Mama

In 1929, 25-year-old Jack Huff strapped a chair to his back to carry his frail mother to the top of Mount Le Conte. He made the seven-mile hike in five hours, stopping only when she got tired.

 How many times did Jack Huff climb Mount Le Conte? We can only guess, since he stopped counting in 1937 after he surpassed 1,000 climbs in 11 years.
Considering that he operated Le Conte Lodge for 24 years from 1926 through 1949, it's possible that he more than doubled that total.
When I first compiled the Le Conte Log, I estimated Huff's total at 3,000. Since then, I learned that after 1949, his wife Pauline Huff  managed the mountaintop Lodge, while Jack stayed in Gatlinburg to manage his family's hotel. The Huffs sold the Lodge in 1960 to Herrick and Myrtle Brown in 1960. Considering that, I revised my estimate and now list Huff at about 2,500. 
 What we can document about Huff's hikes comes from this 1940 newspaper column by Ernie Pyle, the Pulitzer Prize-winning reporter and war correspondent who was killed in 1945 in the Battle of Okinawa. This clipping was one of a series of nationally syndicated columns Pyle filed from the Great Smoky Mountains in the weeks after President Franklin D. Roosevelt officially dedicated the new national park.
 "A mountaineer's strength is in his heart, and not necessarily in a big body," Pyle wrote. "Jack Huff weighs only 150 pounds, and stands sort of folded up with his hands in his pockets. But his walking feats are astounding." By 1940, Pyle figured that Huff had walked over 15,000 miles on the steep slopes of Le Conte, treading out the trails we follow today.
 Jack Huff is the architect of the Lodge we know today. He chose the site near the Le  Conte Spring and built the first three-room Lodge in 1933 and the dining hall in 1939. According to his daughter, Cookie Bowling, the previous campsite built by Paul Adams in 1925 was further up toward Cliff Tops. "Dad chose the site where the Lodge is today," she  said. "This is how he explained it to me."
 Jack Huff died Nov. 4, 1985, at age 82. His family still owns and operates a hotel in Gatlinburg named Jack Huff's, and I sent this clipping to them to see if they could tell me more about his exploits. Cyndi Bowling replied:
That is a wonderful article that we have not ever seen. I shared it with my mother-in-law, Cookie Bowling [Jack Huff's daughter]. She doesn't know exactly how many trips he made after he stopped counting in 1937. She said she does know he hiked many more times because she was born in 1944, and there is a story of him carrying her off the mountain. She said his last trip was in 1960 when he sold Mt. LeConte Lodge.
Speaking of President Roosevelt and his 1940 speech at Newfound Gap to dedicate the Great Smoky Mountains National Park ... one of the men who was in the presidential honor guard that day ranks among the centurions of Le Conte.
 Dr. John Adler, now 95, built the Cabins at Sandy Mush Bald, another mountaintop lodge 30 miles east of Le Conte. I had the opportunity to meet him when I hiked up Sandy Mush Bald (the highest point in Madison County, N.C.) on July 4, 2016.
 Dr. Adler told me that he used to make weekly climbs up Le Conte to deliver mail to the lodge, and before Huff sold the lodge he considered Dr. Adler as his possible replacement. Dr. Adler is confident that he has made over a hundred hikes up Le Conte, though he doesn't have an exact count.

Jack Huff's family at the Lodge in 2011

In 1953, Huff strapped on the chair for this photo in the Nashville Tennessean.

Today, the chair is displayed at the Museum of East Tennessee History in Knoxville.

Saturday, June 11, 2016

Le Conte Decant

I'm a proponent of peak-bagging, but peak-bottling is new to me. This clever photo of Mount Le Conte was taken by Ginger Rogers Farmer on June 10, 2016, from the tower at Clingman's Dome.

(Decant: to carefully pour the contents of one vessel into another without disturbing the sediments.)

Saturday, October 17, 2015

Does the photo-op count?

This is not the summit, but if you get this far I will give you credit. This 2012 hike was my 5th climb, Rick Shortt's 14th, the first for Ralph Phillips and Larry Trivette, and Mike Hembree's sixth. We hiked up the Boulevard Trail, so we bagged High Top along the way.


Peakbaggers, as we are called, can be nit-picky about how to count a mountain climbed.
 If you haven't touched the highest natural ground on the mountain, you can't count it.
 That seems simple enough, but not on Mounte LeConte. Many hikers go only as far as Le Conte Lodge and pose for pictures in front of the dining hall, where a sign declares the summit elevation of 6,593 feet above sea level. However, the altitude at the dining-room door is a shade under 6,400 feet.
 Others continue up to watch the sunset from Cliff Top, elevation 6,555. But that's not the top, either.
 The highest point on the mountain is on High Top, a third of a mile from the lodge, where the official elevation is 6,593 feet and the rock cairn occasionally tops 6,600. Unless you come up on the Boulevard Trail or go to Myrtle Point for sunrise, it's easy to miss the actual summit, where trees obscure the view.
 Ed Wright was conscientious about going all the way to High Top in 1991 when he set the one-year record of 230 climbs, but in later years he often stopped at the lodge.
 For the purposes of the Le Conte honor roll, I am making no distinction between hikes to the Lodge or to High Top. If you get as far as LeConte Lodge (five miles horizontally and a half-mile vertically from the nearest trailhead) you can count the climb on this website.

 In the same spirit, I count those who rode up on horseback. For example, Gracie McNicol's 244 ascents include 141 on foot and 103 on horseback. Gracie also walked down 28 times after riding up. She counted each of those as a half-hike, so she claimed 155 hikes. The difference is irrelevant as far as the Le Conte Log is concerned, because we are already giving her credit for all 244 ascents. 
Bring your own rock to add to the Tower of Rubble at High Top. If we can stack it 50 feet high, Le Conte (6,593) will match Clingman's Dome (6,643) for the highest rock in Tennessee. Rocky Top, indeed!

Friday, October 24, 2014

Godspeed, Dave Scanlon

There are well over 2,000 ascents represented in this 2012 picture: John and Bonnie Northrup, Chris Virden, Dave Scanlon, Nathan Kirkham, and Alan Householder
 Dave Scanlon was within a few weeks of his 1,000th hike when he he died at age 78 on Oct. 24, 2014. His final hike on Sept. 30 was #982. 
 Chris Virden wrote on the Lodge blog:
It is with great sadness we learned of the passing of our dear friend David Scanlon. He graced us with his smiling face and gentle soul almost every week. He hated to miss a Monday due to holidays or weather, so he would hike up another day during the week. He enjoyed bringing us the paper and catching up on the week's news. David was a true advocate for the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. He served as an officer on the boards of the Great Smoky Mountains Association and Discover Life in America. He was an avid hiker and completed all 900 miles of trail in the park. David was a longtime member of the Smoky Mountain Hiking Club and had the opportunity to lead many hikes for them. His knowledge of this park and its history was abundant.
We are better people for having known him in our lives. 
 Dave was a forestry graduate from N.C. State and Yale who worked for Firestone on its rubber plantations in Liberia before going to work for the Tennessee Valley Authority. 
 Here are some of Dave's hikes, mostly taken from the logs of Ed Wright or Paul Dinwiddie. I list them here to give you an idea of the pace you need to sustain to approach 1,000. 
  • #1, July 4, 1966. Met Harvey Broome. 
  • May 22, 1988. Hiked with Paul Dinwiddie on Paul's 400th trip. 
  • #123, Aug. 31, 1994.
  • #127, Sept. 19, 1994. 
  • #133, Oct. 26, 1994. 
  • #137, Oct. 3, 1994.
  • #163, April 13, 1995. 
  • #182, June 19, 1995. 
  • #183, June 23, 1995. 
  • #184, June 26, 1995. 
  • #189, Aug. 18, 1995. 
  • #197, Sept. 11, 1995. 
  • #200, Sept. 18, 1995. 
  • #201, Sept. 20, 1995. 
  • #202, Sept. 27, 1995. 
  • #204, Oct. 30, 1995. 
  • #209, Nov. 13, 1995. 
  • #210, Nov. 20, 1995. When Ed Wright's journals mention Scanlon, it's usually in the context of "I was overtaken by Dave." On this hike, Wright wrote, "Speedy VIP Dave Scanlon passed me." VIP was a title the Park gave to regular hikers like Scanlon and Wright as they patrolled the trails. 
  • #225, March 11, 1996. 
  • #226, March 13, 1996.
  • #236, May 2, 1996.  
  • #242, May 20, 1996. 
  • #248, June 17, 1996.
  • #249, June 19, 1996. 
  • #250, June 26, 1996, to celebrate his 60th birthday. 
  • #251, June 28, 1996. 
  • #255, Sept. 18, 1996. "He was involved in an automobile accident recently and hasn't hiked for several weeks," Wright wrote. 
  • #256, July 30, 1997. "He really hasn't been the same since his automobile wreck about a year ago," Wright wrote. "He said that he was no longer counting his trips to LeConte."
  • #309, Nov. 16, 1998. 
  • #354, Aug. 16, 1999. 
  • #355, Aug. 23, 1999.
  • #360, Sept. 30, 1999. 
  • #361, Oct. 5, 1999. 
  • #362, Oct. 11, 1999. 
  • #363, Oct. 18, 1999. 
  • Over 500, Aug. 8, 2002: "Dave is looking good and is even registering his trip numbers again," Wright wrote after his 1,274th trip. "He is somewhere over 500 trips." 
  • #900, May 8, 2012. "We asked him about his first trip to this magical mountain," Chris Virden wrote on the HighOnLeConte blog. "He said he remembered it as if it were yesterday. He hiked up, for the first time ,when he was 30 years old, 1966. He remembers it well because he got to meet Harvey Broome at the lodge. He listened to stories told by Mr. Broome and the then lodge operator Herrick Brown." Broome was a founder of the Wilderness Society and led the movement to form the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. His final LeConte hike was July 4, 1966.
  • #911, Aug. 5, 2012. Scanlon lit the lantern opening the 2012 LeConte Games, a spoof on the Olympics. A plaque in his honor was placed in the Lodge, alongside those honoring Ed Wright and Margaret Stevenson. 
  • #962, May 1, 2014. Nathan Kirkham wrote on the Lodge blog: "David never has a bad day up here, and is quick with a smile for all the crew and dayhikers he visits.  Without prompting, I noticed David emptying out the collected rainwater from the llama troughs--helping out a certain lodge assistant manager on a very busy morning. David was just happy to make sure the llamas wouldn't have soggy food to eat on their special Thursday trip."
  • #963, May 5, 2014. 
  • #982, Sept. 30, 2014.

Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Climbing Le Conte in a wheelchair

Reprinted from Ability Magazine, 2013

By Josh Pate
Ability magazine

It was that post-Christmas dinner hangover, when you’re so full it hurts to move. That evening Terry Tinnell’s family sat around having one of those pie-in-the-sky conversations, batting around the question: What’s the most beautiful place you’ve ever visited?
All eyes turned to Tinnell’s brother-in-law, Jim Myers, an avid outdoorsman who lives in Knoxville, TN, at the foothills of the Smoky Mountains. He’s traveled all over the world. Everyone was eager to know what his answer would be.
“Mount Le Conte,” Myers said without hesitation.
The third highest peak in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park at an elevation of 6,593 feet, Mount Le Conte is a hiker’s dream destination. It has five trails:
Alum Cave (5.5 miles, 2,560-foot net climb)
The Boulevard (8 miles, 1,080-foot net climb)
Bullhead (7.2 miles, 3,820-foot net climb)
Rainbow Falls (6.5 miles, 3,820-foot net climb)
Trillium Gap (6.5 miles, 3,300-foot net climb)
Though the site is stunning, fatalities sometimes occur as hikers try to climb to Le Conte Lodge, which is at the mountaintop. Once there however, the place is rustic and charming. The lodge is also popular. With such high demand for accommodations, the management must hold a lottery to determine who can stay overnight. Hikers, however, are welcome to bunk in outdoor shelters. (Although, bear claw indentations on a nearby restroom door are a reminder that campers may get some unexpected company during the night.)
At the lodge, dinner is served every evening at 6 pm and typically consists of a sandwich, chips and oatmeal-chocolate-chip cookies. Though a modest buffet, after hours and hours of conquering the mountain, hikers often say it’s the best meal they’ve ever eaten.
Challenges aside, there’s a reason Myers said that Mount Le Conte was the most beautiful place he’s ever visited: The views are breathtaking and serene. So when Myers mentioned the site, Tinnell piped up with some regret. Though he and his wife grew up in the Knoxville area and lived most of their lives there, they now live a good distance away from the fabled peak—just north of Atlanta.
“I’ve been all over the Smoky Mountains and, for whatever reason, we never went to Mount Le Conte, either one of us,” Tinnell told his family. “I feel bad we lived so close and I never took Cindy. Now I guess I never will.” Myers disagreed with him.
“I thought, why not?” Myers recalled. “We can do it. It’s not going to be easy, but we can accomplish this with the right equipment and people.” Tinnell had doubts.
“I looked down at my chair and back at him like, are you stupid?” Tinnell recalled. “That was the start of it. I looked around the table and saw the look in everybody’s eyes. Here was a challenge that we could attack as a group.”

CHALLENGE ACCEPTED

Tinnell, 55, uses a wheelchair following his diagnosis of T12 transverse myelitis, an inflammation of the spinal cord. He’s not one to ask for accommodations or make excuses. While the conversation occurred during the 2011 holiday season, that wasn’t the first time his family had rallied around him with sparkles in their eyes.
He had learned to play wheelchair tennis and his family went all-in to support this new hobby. He and his folks had always camped, backpacked and kayaked and about six months after he began using the chair, his wife spearheaded a camping trip just for the two of them. Tinnell was anxious. In fact, he was so nervous that his mind raced ahead, considering every aspect of the trip and how he would camp using the chair.
He was so focused on the trip that he didn’t realize his family was up to something until he and Cindy returned to discover that family and friends-about 30 people in all-had spent the weekend renovating Tinnell’s home with accessible features. The house was built in 1896, so the overhaul included a ramp out the back door, a new bathroom and a main-floor office space, which was transferred from upstairs.
“Within the nucleus of this group, I’ve seen that spark before,” Tinnell said of his extended family’s team spirit. He had a tear in his eye and a quaver in his voice. “It is impressive as well as humbling.” And so Tinnell and his family’s two-year mission to get to the top of Mount Le Conte was officially launched.
First, he and Myers needed to determine who would make the trip. Tinnell’s wife, Cindy, was a mandatory member of the crew. The fact that the couple had never been to the top of LeConte was the point of the trip. Tinnell wanted the rest of his family to go as well, so his 24-year-old daughter, Erin, came along, as did his 25-year-old son, Julian. Tinnell also invited Myers, his sister and his brother, as well as some lifelong buddies.
He only wanted family and close friends to go, but Myers convinced him the team needed some muscle along on the trip for the heavy lifting. That’s when Myers recruited a few of his kids’ friends, 20-somethings who knew how to keep going when the going gets rough.
Next step: Determine the transportation plan. Myers first thought about using a wheeled stretcher, much like the ones rolled out to rescue people from hiking trails when things go bust. Tinnell vetoed that plan.
“No way I’m doing that,” he said, “because I’m not going up there unless I help propel myself. I recognize I’m going to need help, but I want to participate.”
The group decided on a three-wheel water wheelchair because of the durability of the wheels and its ability to maneuver over rocky terrain. A water wheelchair has oversized tires and sits in a more reclined triangular position with one wheel in the front and two in the back. It is often used for beaches or to assist someone getting in or out of water through a ramped entrance.
Finally, the group had to choose the best trail to take.
“Although my sister, brother and her husband have been to Mount Le Conte every year at least a couple times over the last 20 years, every weekend they hiked a different trail, taking pictures and making a detailed account about what we could do to manage various obstacles. They decided which trail would be our best option.”
Myers admitted the decision was difficult.
“We had done the Trillium Gap trail and when you go on it and think you will be taking a wheelchair, you think, oh my gosh,” Myers said. “Then we did Bullhead. We had hiked the Boulevard so we knew it. When you start thinking about a wheelchair, you just have a totally different mind-set.
“Trillium is rough, and Bullhead is even longer and narrower, but it didn’t seem as rough. It was tough deciding, but we finally settled on Bullhead. We revisited it and then Le Conte asked us to revisit it again.”
The crew at Le Conte Lodge requested that the team review their plans to make sure it was not only doable, but also whether it was their best option. After Myers revisited Bullhead, he had second thoughts about the trail. The crew at Le Conte knew Bullhead was more difficult than it might’ve initially seemed.
“So we changed our mind and actually went with Trillium, and it ended up working out,” Myers said.
Trillium Gap is the 6.5-mile trail that climbs 3,300 feet-a rough trail that is an average length but the second steepest of the five. Still, based on Myers’ and other family members’ research, it seemed like the optimal path for the wheelchair the group had chosen. They decided to do a test run at Kennesaw Mountain, but the trail there is gravel. Mount Le Conte is pure wilderness.
Once they sorted out the logistics, the family crossed its fingers for a date to spend the night. Mount Le Conte’s lottery system opens each year on October 1, and hikers can request up to three potential dates. Tinnell wanted the management at Le Conte Lodge to know they were coming, whether they got a date or not. (Remember the cabins with the bear claw indentations?)
“Prior to October, I called the general manager at Mount Le Conte and told him what we were trying to accomplish,” Tinnell said. “He told me he couldn’t help with getting us in; it was simply the lottery system. Second, he tried extremely hard to talk us out of attacking the mountain.”
General manager Tim Line knows the dangers of hiking Le Conte. He’s from nearby Knoxville and began working at the lodge in 1977. He’s also seasoned when it comes to safety and what it takes to make it up the mountain. He’s seen people die trying to scale it, and he’s seen people who wished they’d never laid eyes on that mountain. To toss aside being politically correct for a moment, Mount Le Conte is not recommended for someone who uses a wheelchair.
“His concern was safety,” Tinnell said. “He didn’t want people to get hurt.”
He and Line went back and forth via e-mail regarding when Tinnell aimed to hike the mountain, how he planned to do it, which trail they intended to use and when the staff should expect his party so they could be prepared—just in case something went wrong.
“One of his last e-mails was, ‘I hope you’re all prepared for the task of what you’re trying to do,'” Tinnell added.
Quite frankly, every season the Le Conte Lodge staff treks down the mountain on rescue missions for people who thought they were prepared to hike the mountain but were not. Tinnell thanked Line for the advice and then got back to planning.
“It just so happened I was turning 55 on May 15, so I thought if you’ve got to go during the week, it would be cool to spend my 55th birthday at the top of Mount Le Conte. We put Wednesday, May 15, as our third choice. We put Friday night, May 17, as our first choice and Thursday night, May 16, as our second choice. They did the lottery and we got in for May 15, my birthday.”

BEAUTIFUL BIRTHDAY

To be clear, the hike up and back down wasn’t all cake and champagne. It took the group seven-and-a-half hours to hike a trail that people typically complete in less than five hours. Still, the time was faster than Myers anticipated. He knew the journey would be difficult and he was right. In Tinnell’s words: “My brother in-law, Jim, is smarter than me, so I should have known when he was intimidated that I should have been nervous.
“I had no understanding of how difficult it was going to be,” Tinnell continued. “As an example, one gentleman who went with us is 30 and an exercise fanatic. He does hiking-trail marathons as if traditional marathons are not difficult enough! He told me at the top of Le Conte that that was the most difficult thing he’d ever done.”
Myers knew the trip up with Tinnell would be rough, but he relied on advice from one of his hunting buddies to keep him on task.
“One of the guys I hunt with is an Army vet who served in Vietnam,” Myers explained. “I’ve been in the woods with him numerous times and when something would go south, I’d be ready to go back to the house and he would say, ‘We’re infantry. We’re going to adapt and overcome.’ I entered May 15 with that attitude: This isn’t going to go smoothly. Things will happen, but we’re going to adapt on the fly and complete the task.”
It was a grueling seven-and-a-half hours up the mountain. Tinnell wore out a new set of gloves on the way up as he pushed the wheels whenever he could. Other times, the group had to “bench press” him and his chair over 3-foot-tall boulders along the trail. The team welded a crossbar behind the chair so that more than one person could push while going up.
Near the top, the trail opens to a grassy clearing where hikers simply stroll the last few yards to the lodge. It was perfect weather for a perfect day: 66 degrees and one of the clearest days Le Conte had seen all season. When you’ve made it to the clearing, you’re home free and Tinnell’s party was thrilled to have arrived there. Myers said that last mile was slow motion because everyone was fatigued and they knew they had time to spare before darkness set in.
Once Tinnell and his party reached the clearing, the entire lodge staff and guests for that night awaited them, clapping and cheering. They took pictures with Tinnell, peppering him with questions, eager to be a part of his experience. He and his party of hikers were lauded like rock stars!
The first person to congratulate Tinnell was Line, the lodge’s general manager who had urged Tinnell to reconsider.
Nathan Kirkham, assistant site manager at Le Conte Lodge, wrote the following on the staff’s May 16, 2013, blog:
“Terry Tinnell, with the help of 14 strong friends and a service dog named, Cocoa, became the only person we know of who reached Le Conte Lodge in a wheelchair.”
Kirkham’s blog went on to echo Line’s warnings of the treacherous conditions of climbing the mountain.
“The success rate for such attempts is abysmal in this inherently dangerous pursuit,” Kirkham wrote. “Le Conte Lodge general manager Tim Line, who has been affiliated with the lodge since 1977, can remember no other happy endings when someone attempted the top in a wheelchair.”
The words offer a chilling reminder that the feat Tinnell’s crew accomplished is not for everyone. The hikers who had passed the group earlier that day knew that, too. Other hikers told Tinnell they heard he was on his way up and wanted to meet him. Day hikers, who had planned to go back down the mountain that afternoon, waited around until they’d had a chance to meet him.
“A lot of the people had passed us on the trail, but I didn’t expect them to be waiting for us or to give us such a warm welcome,” said Tinnell’s daughter, Erin.
“It was beautiful,” she went on. “That moment when we got there and saw those people applauding us, we knew we did it. We weren’t just proud of ourselves, but other people noticed what we did, too. We wanted to let people know if something happens in your life that isn’t so great, you can still live your life and do things you’ve always wanted to do.”
“It was overwhelming,” Erin recalled. “We were exhausted and tired but had a feeling of accomplishment. People we didn’t know were saying “congratulations,” and that they were glad we were there. It was gratifying to see how it impacted their lives. All these people were telling me afterward that my dad is such an inspiration and a hero, and I’m thinking he’s always been my hero.”
Tinnell spent time talking with several of the guests, as well as the lodge staff and then, his family celebrated his 55th birthday in style. “We unwound pretty good that night,” Myers laughed.

HALFWAY POINT

The next morning, however, they had to go back the way they’d come.
“I thought going up would be a complete effort and coming down would be a breeze,” Tinnell recalled. “It did take more effort going up, but coming down was equally challenging.”
Mount-Le-Conte
Heading back down the mountain, he was inches from going over the side of Mount Le Conte, bringing to mind all the worrisome warnings that go along with attempting such a climb-wheelchair or not.
On the trip up the mountain, people had pulled and pushed Tinnell. Going down, members of the group walked in front, pointing out rocks and ditches in the terrain, while one person guided the chair.
“I had the thought coming down that I was so tired from the day before that if the chair got away from me, I didn’t know if I could control it,” said Myers, who was the first to push Tinnell on the way down. “I was that fatigued. It wasn’t long afterward that one of the young people almost lost Terry.”
Tinnell recalled the scare.
“We were about 3 to 4 inches from the edge of the trail on the left,” he remembered. “It dropped off about 80-90 feet there. The right tire hit a rock and threw me up, causing the front wheel to turn sharply to the left. I started over the side of the mountain, but I saw a tree limb and grabbed it with both hands, letting go of the chair. The guy pushing me grabbed the same limb with his left hand and the chair with his right. We dangled in the air.”
Five members of the group bolted to the rescue, while Tinnell’s wife and sister were in shock. It struck them that all the beauty of the previous day could be erased in a heartbeat.
“I didn’t think I was going to die, but I thought if something happened, it would be painful and really bad,” Tinnell said.
Working together, his group steered both men and the chair back to safety. They collected themselves, tried to calm down and ultimately carried on.
“It got our adrenaline going, but we all had a successful outcome,” Tinnell said. He lived to tell the one about hanging from a tree limb 80 or 90 feet up.
Tinnell defied the long odds, but whenever the subject comes up, he first gives credit to his crew of family and close friends who joined him on the journey. The most important member of that party is his wife, Cindy, with whom he always wanted to share the experience.
Now, Tinnell has an answer when someone asks: “What’s the most beautiful place you’ve been?”
“Of course, at this point, it’s Mount Le Conte,” he said laughing. “In addition to the location, it was the process of what that group of folks did for me in combination with the sheer beauty of that mountain and the Smoky Mountains as a whole.
“Our motto was FFA,” Tinnell continued. “If you choose the right friends, family and attitude, you can climb any mountain.”

Monday, January 2, 2012

Ernest Luallen, #141, died at Arch Rock

 Ernest Luallen was one of the most frequent visitors to the top of Le Conte in the 1980s, with 141 summit hikes.
On Jan. 2, 1992, Luallen, Paul Dinwiddie, and Bill Sharp were on their way down the Alum Cave Bluff Trail and were about 30 minutes from the trailhead when Luallen, 69 years old, collapsed at Arch Rock.
 Dinwiddie wrote in his journal: 
Lu had acted normal in every way until he suddenly collapsed while talking. I don't believe that he had any warning or knew what happened. I believe that he died instantly. We had made it to the lodge, somewhat later than usual. Lu told me to go on ahead at the double steps. Lu arrived about 10 minutes later than I, around 3 p.m. We had to use our lights about 1/4 mile before Arch Rock. Lu was in front, Bill was next and I was last. Just as we were about to enter the arch, Bill turned his light to the right and I saw Lu lying there. Lu was always a little awkward and I thought that he has slipped and fell. I called to him and asked if he was alright. He made no reply. When I got to him, I knew that something bad was wrong. I told Bill to hurry down the trail and drive to the Ranger Station for help. Lu was facing the rock and his hands were pinned under and between the rock and I couldn't feel his pulse. I couldn't turn him on his back because of his pack. I managed to unstrap the left shoulder strap and pull the pack away from his back. With considerable effort, I was able to roll him over on his back and straighten his limbs. I could get no pulse. It was 2 hours before the first ranger arrived. He told me to go on down after giving me Lu's keys to start Lu's car so that I could warm up. I met several rangers as I went down and one stayed at the parking lot. After they brought Lu off, they told me to follow the ambulance to the Sevierville hospital to help them with their report. 
There is an outcropping near the 4-mile mark on the Alum Cave Bluff Trail that Ed Wright nicknamed Lu's Pulpit, in memory of his friend.
Luallen was in a group of 15 hikers who accompanied Wright on his 500th Le Conte ascent July 16, 1989. Wright wrote that he got a big hug from Amie, a member of the Lodge crew. "Lu asked Amie if she would hug him when he made his 500th hike to Le Conte," Wright wrote. "She said no."


Deaths on Mount Le Conte

There have been several deaths on the trails of Mount Le Conte. 
  • Dr. Charles H. Lindsley, age 72, of Asheville was hiking with a a group from Asheville School Jan. 30, 1971, when he slipped and fell off the upper section of the Alum Cave Bluff Trail. For 40 years, his friend Pop Hollandsworth held a memorial hike each January. Dr. Lindsley was a research chemist and a graduate of Princeton. 
  • Brad Lavies, 13, from Adamsvile AL, was fatally injured in a fall near Rainbow Falls on March 31, 1993. 
  • Dr. John McCallie Bolinger, 55, of Chattanooga, suffered a fatal heart attack while climbing Le Conte on June 2, 2005.
  • There were evidently two deaths in 2008. I don't have full details, but in November, a hiker fell from Cliff Tops, and in December, another hiker suffered a heart attack or hypothermia and was found face down in the snow a half-mile from the Lodge.
  • Philip Basset Davenport, 47, of Nashville, was hiking down the Alum Cave trail  July 15, 2017, after spending the night at the Le Conte Lodge, when he suffered a fatal heart attack about three miles from the trailhead.

Saturday, October 25, 2008

#1,310: Ed Wright's final trip report

Ed Wright, Paul Dinwiddie, Margaret Stevenson, and an unknown hiker
 Ed Wright launched the website mtleconte.com and used it to publish his trip reports, as well as the logbooks for Paul Dinwiddie and Margaret Stevenson. After his death in 2009, his family compiled the trip reports into a memorial book: More than 1,001 Hikes to Mt. Leconte.
 In 1991, the year he turned 66, Wright set a one-year record with 230 climbs. He also made 107 climbs in 1993, 104 in 1994, 103 in 1995, and 111 in 1998. As far as I can tell, all his climbs were day hikes. In his logs, he never mentioned spending the night at the Lodge. He estimated that he met over 120,000 people on the trails of Le Conte. 
 An Auburn graduate, Wright worked as a mechanical engineer for the Atomic Energy Commission at Oak Ridge, Tenn. He retired to Florida in 1998 and kept climbing even after major surgery: He made 132 hikes after heart bypass surgery in 1999 and 43 after knee replacement surgery in 2001. 
 This was Ed's report for his final trip, #1310, on Oct. 25, 2008. It includes his interview with Ron Valentine, which is the foundation for my estimate of 4,000 climbs by Mr. Valentine:

Hike 1310 10/25/08 
 This hike was planned to celebrate the fall colors in the Smokies. It was a terrible choice by the weather forecast but after an all day rain, it was supposed to clear up at 3:00 a.m. according to Lisa. It turned out to be a very rainy day for a 750-mile drive.Lisa got us a reservation at the Comfort Suites in Cherokee, NC. Debbie Crowder (Landcruiser) from Stuart FL came along with us. Debbie is section hiking the Appalachian Trail. We stopped for dinner before arriving in Cherokee so we checked in and prepared for tomorrow's hike and prayed that it would really stop raining at 3:00a.m. We went to Hardee's and grabbed breakfast and food for lunch at the lodge before heading for the trailhead. 
 There was a mist falling and no view at the overlook before reaching Newfound Gap. With no photo opt we continued down the mountain to the Alum Cave Parking lot. We arrived a few minutes after seven o'clock a.m. and it was still misting rain and dark. A small crowd was on hand to greet us. I took a picture but it was very dark and the mist caused snow-like specks in the picture. Pictured are Austin, Debbie, Charlie, Bob, Cindy Wisnieski and Sue Forshey from Columbus, OH. Connie Houk, Elizabeth Rowland plus Rick Leihgeber. Rick's wife is one of Connie's co-workers at the bank in Sevierville, TN, Mike Williams showed up after the picture was taken.
 It was 47 degrees at the trailhead as we departed at 7:35. The boys had wanted to start early enough to use their LED headlamps but it was not to be. Austin and Charlie did their best to find salamanders and craw dads along the trail and streams but the cold temperatures had them hiding somewhere else. The mist kept falling and the condensed drops falling from overhead branches gave a pretty good impression of a light rain. I took my first picture as we crossed the first footlog at the one mile marker. There are really no markers so if you are hiking the trail don't expect to find any.
We took a short break at Arch Rock and the boys kept looking for creatures but they were hiding here also. The light mist and droplets kept falling as we passed Inspiration Point. After a short break we continued to the Alum Cave Bluff. We took a break there and enjoyed being shielded from the precipitation and fog. We met a man from Knoxville with his two sons, above Little Duck Hawk Ridge. Charlie joined them for a picture. We took another break at Gracie's Pulpit. We did not tarry long because of the cold mist and wind.
We started meeting the overnight guests from the lodge above the log steps, three miles above the trailhead. We met a lady with her son, a junior in High School from Columbia, SC. Next we met a group from Birmingham, AL. They were followed by three UT students returning from and overnight at the LeConte Shelter. I finally saw some leaves with nice colors. It had been too foggy up to this point but these Witch Hobble leaves were close by. So here are the long sought foliage colors.
We met Ron Valentine and his lovely hiking companion above the upper steps. We chatted for a while. I again asked him about his total hikes. My hearing in marginal, at best, but I think that he said that he had made 798 hikes to LeConte since January 1, 2000. I think that he said that he had about 3,000 hikes before that. I asked him when he was going to come clean and tell the world of his accomplishments. He replied that he would give the number after I died. I told him that I was not half dead yet. Ron is a fine guy and a great picker of hiking companions.
The water was flowing freely at Trout Branch. Even with all of the recent rain, this area is still far below normal on rainfall. We were finally getting above some of the clouds at Grassy Slide. It was neat seeing the clouds zoom up the side of the mountain. At his location we were passed by several groups of Extreme Rangers from Knoxville, TN. I think that there were 32 boys and five counselors. We played leap frog with the group for the rest of the day including lunch in the lodge. Extreme Rangers is a Boy/Girl Scout like group from the YMCA/YWCA. I am trying to get more information on the group.
At Betty Jane Barnett's Stairways to Heaven, Cindy did her usual prayer for hiking friends and others needing prayer. The clouds were clearing as we neared the Old Horse Gate. I photographed the clouds as they zipped over the mountains and even got to chat with Allyson and Chris Virden as they were heading down for some exercise. I took a picture of Paul's Face that showed that clouds were still around. The line to the two backcountry rest rooms were too long but Bob discovered a new Men's standing facility only. That was a much faster stop and worked just fine. I went over to the dining room and took a photo of the date to verify the hike.
 The temperature was mild but I did not check the thermometer. Visibility was fair. I went inside the office and photographed the weather data chart. I need to update my chart for 2007. I bought Debbie a T-shirt to celebrate her companioning us on this trip. I tried to eat my foil wrapped tuna but it kept falling apart so I adjourned to the edge of the porch to finish that off. Last trip I brought a foil wrapped salmon packet that had worked just fine. It held together like a piece of toast.
The office was totally filled by the Extreme Rangers and other hikers. Bob, Charlie, Debbie and others headed for Cliff Top as we started back down the mountain. Austin was not feeling well so he came down with Cindy and me. We met Allyson and Chris Virden, returning from their hike, as we started down the mountain. I kept taking pictures of Cliff Top as we headed down from the old horse gate location. I kept hoping to see Bob, Charlie and Debbie up on top. I took a few of Paul's Face as we continued down the trail. I didn't have any luck even with a few more departing shots. Bob, Debby and Charlie were indeed on Cliff Top and made a photograph to prove it. We just could not see each other although the trail at the site of the old horse gate is visible from where they were standing. We were overtaken and passed by a couple of groups of Extreme Rangers although one group with girls kind of threw me off. I am not sure that they were part of the group. The girls were better looking than the boys though.
As we descended, I kept trying to find some nice colors but really didn't succeed. We took a short break at Gracie's Pulpit and I took one last shot of Cliff Top. Above Big Duck Hawk Ridge, I took a picture of the parking lot below. I also took a picture from atop Little Duck Hawk Ridge. We breezed through Alum Cave Bluff but Charlie managed to stir up his usual dust. I took a shot more or less straight up from the trail to show what the bluff looked like. I also got some colorful lichen growing on the rocks. I shot a picture of Dusty Charlie as he descended from his dust storm. I took a couple of pictures of the Eye of the Needle as we passed. I looked and listened for the peregrine falcons but didn't have any luck.
We took a snack break at Inspiration Point. Charlie had used up all of his water and wanted some water from his dad. Charlie wanted to make sure that his dad's water was not being recycled. Bob gave him clear evidence that the water was not recycled and Charlie drank all that was left.
Debbie enjoyed the scenery of the Dolly Parton Peaks and Myrtle Point. I did find a few fallen maple leaves that had decent color after leaving Inspiration Point. There were also a few spots of color on Dolly's left peak and off the trail. I took a few pictures of Alum Creek as we passed through. I was very happy to reach the trailhead. I was dead tired.
   We found part of the Extreme Rangers preparing food for the group. Sue Forshey was changing shoes and preparing to drive back to Columbus, Ohio with Cindy. Bill Williams, Debbie and Bob were enjoying refreshments. I climbed into Bobs car to escape the 44 degree temperature and took a picture of the Extreme Rangers preparing food. We said our goodbyes and each headed back toward their home. I took a couple of more pictures from the car after we crossed into North Carolina. The colors were nicer there than on the Tennessee side of the Appalachian Trail. 

Sunday, November 7, 1993

The original Tour de Le Conte

 This clipping from the Nashville Tennesseean tells the story of Mike Povia and Lee Lewis on the inaugural Tour de Le Conte in 1993.