Saturday, October 25, 2008

#1,310: Ed Wright's final trip report

Ed Wright, Paul Dinwiddie, Margaret Stevenson, and an unknown hiker
 Ed Wright launched the website mtleconte.com and used it to publish his trip reports, as well as the logbooks for Paul Dinwiddie and Margaret Stevenson. After his death in 2009, his family compiled the trip reports into a memorial book: More than 1,001 Hikes to Mt. Leconte.
 In 1991, the year he turned 66, Wright set a one-year record with 230 climbs. He also made 107 climbs in 1993, 104 in 1994, 103 in 1995, and 111 in 1998. As far as I can tell, all his climbs were day hikes. In his logs, he never mentioned spending the night at the Lodge. He estimated that he met over 120,000 people on the trails of Le Conte. 
 An Auburn graduate, Wright worked as a mechanical engineer for the Atomic Energy Commission at Oak Ridge, Tenn. He retired to Florida in 1998 and kept climbing even after major surgery: He made 132 hikes after heart bypass surgery in 1999 and 43 after knee replacement surgery in 2001. 
 This was Ed's report for his final trip, #1310, on Oct. 25, 2008. It includes his interview with Ron Valentine, which is the foundation for my estimate of 4,000 climbs by Mr. Valentine:

Hike 1310 10/25/08 
 This hike was planned to celebrate the fall colors in the Smokies. It was a terrible choice by the weather forecast but after an all day rain, it was supposed to clear up at 3:00 a.m. according to Lisa. It turned out to be a very rainy day for a 750-mile drive.Lisa got us a reservation at the Comfort Suites in Cherokee, NC. Debbie Crowder (Landcruiser) from Stuart FL came along with us. Debbie is section hiking the Appalachian Trail. We stopped for dinner before arriving in Cherokee so we checked in and prepared for tomorrow's hike and prayed that it would really stop raining at 3:00a.m. We went to Hardee's and grabbed breakfast and food for lunch at the lodge before heading for the trailhead. 
 There was a mist falling and no view at the overlook before reaching Newfound Gap. With no photo opt we continued down the mountain to the Alum Cave Parking lot. We arrived a few minutes after seven o'clock a.m. and it was still misting rain and dark. A small crowd was on hand to greet us. I took a picture but it was very dark and the mist caused snow-like specks in the picture. Pictured are Austin, Debbie, Charlie, Bob, Cindy Wisnieski and Sue Forshey from Columbus, OH. Connie Houk, Elizabeth Rowland plus Rick Leihgeber. Rick's wife is one of Connie's co-workers at the bank in Sevierville, TN, Mike Williams showed up after the picture was taken.
 It was 47 degrees at the trailhead as we departed at 7:35. The boys had wanted to start early enough to use their LED headlamps but it was not to be. Austin and Charlie did their best to find salamanders and craw dads along the trail and streams but the cold temperatures had them hiding somewhere else. The mist kept falling and the condensed drops falling from overhead branches gave a pretty good impression of a light rain. I took my first picture as we crossed the first footlog at the one mile marker. There are really no markers so if you are hiking the trail don't expect to find any.
We took a short break at Arch Rock and the boys kept looking for creatures but they were hiding here also. The light mist and droplets kept falling as we passed Inspiration Point. After a short break we continued to the Alum Cave Bluff. We took a break there and enjoyed being shielded from the precipitation and fog. We met a man from Knoxville with his two sons, above Little Duck Hawk Ridge. Charlie joined them for a picture. We took another break at Gracie's Pulpit. We did not tarry long because of the cold mist and wind.
We started meeting the overnight guests from the lodge above the log steps, three miles above the trailhead. We met a lady with her son, a junior in High School from Columbia, SC. Next we met a group from Birmingham, AL. They were followed by three UT students returning from and overnight at the LeConte Shelter. I finally saw some leaves with nice colors. It had been too foggy up to this point but these Witch Hobble leaves were close by. So here are the long sought foliage colors.
We met Ron Valentine and his lovely hiking companion above the upper steps. We chatted for a while. I again asked him about his total hikes. My hearing in marginal, at best, but I think that he said that he had made 798 hikes to LeConte since January 1, 2000. I think that he said that he had about 3,000 hikes before that. I asked him when he was going to come clean and tell the world of his accomplishments. He replied that he would give the number after I died. I told him that I was not half dead yet. Ron is a fine guy and a great picker of hiking companions.
The water was flowing freely at Trout Branch. Even with all of the recent rain, this area is still far below normal on rainfall. We were finally getting above some of the clouds at Grassy Slide. It was neat seeing the clouds zoom up the side of the mountain. At his location we were passed by several groups of Extreme Rangers from Knoxville, TN. I think that there were 32 boys and five counselors. We played leap frog with the group for the rest of the day including lunch in the lodge. Extreme Rangers is a Boy/Girl Scout like group from the YMCA/YWCA. I am trying to get more information on the group.
At Betty Jane Barnett's Stairways to Heaven, Cindy did her usual prayer for hiking friends and others needing prayer. The clouds were clearing as we neared the Old Horse Gate. I photographed the clouds as they zipped over the mountains and even got to chat with Allyson and Chris Virden as they were heading down for some exercise. I took a picture of Paul's Face that showed that clouds were still around. The line to the two backcountry rest rooms were too long but Bob discovered a new Men's standing facility only. That was a much faster stop and worked just fine. I went over to the dining room and took a photo of the date to verify the hike.
 The temperature was mild but I did not check the thermometer. Visibility was fair. I went inside the office and photographed the weather data chart. I need to update my chart for 2007. I bought Debbie a T-shirt to celebrate her companioning us on this trip. I tried to eat my foil wrapped tuna but it kept falling apart so I adjourned to the edge of the porch to finish that off. Last trip I brought a foil wrapped salmon packet that had worked just fine. It held together like a piece of toast.
The office was totally filled by the Extreme Rangers and other hikers. Bob, Charlie, Debbie and others headed for Cliff Top as we started back down the mountain. Austin was not feeling well so he came down with Cindy and me. We met Allyson and Chris Virden, returning from their hike, as we started down the mountain. I kept taking pictures of Cliff Top as we headed down from the old horse gate location. I kept hoping to see Bob, Charlie and Debbie up on top. I took a few of Paul's Face as we continued down the trail. I didn't have any luck even with a few more departing shots. Bob, Debby and Charlie were indeed on Cliff Top and made a photograph to prove it. We just could not see each other although the trail at the site of the old horse gate is visible from where they were standing. We were overtaken and passed by a couple of groups of Extreme Rangers although one group with girls kind of threw me off. I am not sure that they were part of the group. The girls were better looking than the boys though.
As we descended, I kept trying to find some nice colors but really didn't succeed. We took a short break at Gracie's Pulpit and I took one last shot of Cliff Top. Above Big Duck Hawk Ridge, I took a picture of the parking lot below. I also took a picture from atop Little Duck Hawk Ridge. We breezed through Alum Cave Bluff but Charlie managed to stir up his usual dust. I took a shot more or less straight up from the trail to show what the bluff looked like. I also got some colorful lichen growing on the rocks. I shot a picture of Dusty Charlie as he descended from his dust storm. I took a couple of pictures of the Eye of the Needle as we passed. I looked and listened for the peregrine falcons but didn't have any luck.
We took a snack break at Inspiration Point. Charlie had used up all of his water and wanted some water from his dad. Charlie wanted to make sure that his dad's water was not being recycled. Bob gave him clear evidence that the water was not recycled and Charlie drank all that was left.
Debbie enjoyed the scenery of the Dolly Parton Peaks and Myrtle Point. I did find a few fallen maple leaves that had decent color after leaving Inspiration Point. There were also a few spots of color on Dolly's left peak and off the trail. I took a few pictures of Alum Creek as we passed through. I was very happy to reach the trailhead. I was dead tired.
   We found part of the Extreme Rangers preparing food for the group. Sue Forshey was changing shoes and preparing to drive back to Columbus, Ohio with Cindy. Bill Williams, Debbie and Bob were enjoying refreshments. I climbed into Bobs car to escape the 44 degree temperature and took a picture of the Extreme Rangers preparing food. We said our goodbyes and each headed back toward their home. I took a couple of more pictures from the car after we crossed into North Carolina. The colors were nicer there than on the Tennessee side of the Appalachian Trail. 

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