Thursday, March 16, 2017

Gary White #90: Going the extra mile

Armed with duct tape and head-lamp, Gary White is ready for anything.

     There are 320 climbs up Mount Le Conte represented in this photo of Gary White and Dewey Slusher thawing out in the dining room at Le Conte Lodge. Dewey posted it March 15 with this message:
If you happen to make it up to Le Conte Lodge this week and you see this man, please take a moment to stop and thank him. He's Mr. Gary White, a retired engineer and resident of Alabama who volunteers his time to help get things around the lodge up to speed for opening.This is a huge benefit for all of us who hike up there, not just the guests. The hospitality extended to us day hikers and overnighters at the shelter by the Lodge crew is a wonderful gift. By the way, Gary has hiked up to Le Conte 90 times. Think how amazing that is for someone living in the "Heart of Dixie" state.
     We all owe our thanks to dedicated staff and volunteers like Gary (and Tim Webb) who brave the cold each March to get the lodge stocked up and spruced up for guests. Their work includes unloading and storing tons of supplies that are delivered to the mountaintop by helicopter. This week's late-winter storm has delayed the flights, forcing Le Conte Lodge to cancel reservations for March 20-23.
     The waiting list just got longer!

Friday, February 3, 2017

See 5 state highpoints from Le Conte

The website peakfinder.org will help you simulate and identify peaks visible from any point you choose.
This is the projection south/southwest from Myrtle Point on Mount Le Conte. Click on this link and zoom

and pan to see the entire panorama. Click on the name of a mountain to get the bearings and distance.



     Rock City advertises that you can see seven states from Lookout Mountain near Chattanooga. The scenery in Rock City is spectacular, but it falls short of the barnyard hype—you'll be lucky to see four states: Georgia, Tennessee, Alabama, and North Carolina. A monument at the overlook points toward Kentucky, Virginia, and South Carolina, but all of those are way beyond the horizon. (South Carolina is 120 miles away, not 80 as the sign says.) And of all the mountains you can see from Rock City, none of them are the highest in their states.
     From Mount Le Conte, however, it is possible to not only see five states, but also to see the highest point in all of them.
     On a perfectly clear day in the Smokies—antithetical, I know—all five should be visible from Myrtle Point on the east side of Le Conte. From right to left, the panorama includes Tennessee's Clingman's Dome (7 miles southwest), Georgia's Brasstown Bald, (57 miles southwest, just to the left of Clingman's), North Carolina's Mount Mitchell (66 miles east), Virginia's Mount Rogers (126 miles northeast), and Kentucky's Black Mountain (92 miles north/northeast).
     The highest points in Tennessee and Georgia can be seen from the Cliff Top overlook on the west side of Le Conte, and the Kentucky high point should be visible from the deck at Le Conte Lodge.
     It may also be possible to see six states and five state highpoints from the tower at Clingman's Dome. Virginia's Mount Rogers is hidden from there, but South Carolina's Sassafras Mountain may be barely visible 57 miles to the southeast. The computer projections at peakfinder.org and heywhatsthat.com are inconclusive, but once the tower is built on Sassafras later this year, we'll put it to the eye test.
     (There is a Sassafras Mountain visible on the horizon southeast of Le Conte, but alas, it is not the one in South Carolina.)
     Can you really see all the way from Myrtle Point to Mount Rogers? It is far-fetched but not impossible, considering the way those peaks are aligned across the upper Tennessee Valley. Looking down the same corridor, I've been able to see Mount Guyot from Elk Knob—a distance of 100 miles. 
     Even if the Virginia highpoint is out of range, you still may be able to see other prominent Virginia peaks across the valley northeast of Le Conte, including High Knob near Norton, Va.
 
IF YOU ARE READING THIS ON YOUR PHONE, you will need to switch from the mobile view to full screen (iPhone users click on "View web version" below) to see our Honor Roll and enjoy the full breadth of the information we've accumulated.
SPEAKING OF PEAKFINDER.ORG, I highly recommend the Peakfinder app ($4.99), which works with the iPhone camera to create an augmented reality. It will show you the names and outlines of the mountains before you—superimposed over the image on your camera. The overlay moves with you.

Monday, January 30, 2017

Ed Iler #39: Counting Le Conte 'cultists' in S.C.

The Greenville News, Jan. 14, 1974
 Mike Hembree and I were not the first Greenville scribes to be wooed by Mount Le Conte.
 I recently unearthed a 1974 column in The Greenville News written by J.B. Southern, where he described Le Conte's cultish appeal and listed several local hikers who frequented the mountain—even though it was 140 crooked miles from Greenville.
 The Greenville honor roll back then was led by Ed Iler with 39 climbs up Le Conte, R.P. Crumpler with 22, and Marguerite Chiles and J.A. Southern (the columnist's brother) with 19 apiece.
 "There are Mount Le Conte cultists in many other communities too," Southern wrote. "Unquestionably Dr. Rufus Morgan, retired Episcopal minister of Franklin, N.C., is chief among them. He has made an astounding 137 visits to the mountain's crest."

Rev. Morgan's status was not as unquestionable as Southern supposed. In fact, the preacher had a friendly rivalry going with a retired nurse from Maryville, Tenn., named Gracie McNicol. By the time they were finished, they both claimed records.
 Rev. Morgan hiked up 174 times, which at the time was believed to be the most by anyone other than the staff at Le Conte Lodge. McNicol made 244 ascents, but 103 of hers were by horseback and "only" 141 on foot. Both made their final climbs on their birthdays: Rev. Morgan at 93 in 1978 and McNicol at 92 in 1983
 As impressive as their accomplishments were back then, neither of them ranks in the Top 20 on our honor roll today.
 In hindsight, I'm almost certain that by the late 1970s Ron Valentine was already ahead of Morgan and McNicol, but he has been modest about his accomplishments and so far I have not been able to document his hikes. If you can help me get in touch with Valentine, please email TommyL810(at)hotmail(dot)com.

Speaking of "hindsight," Le Conte was my first and last chance to be a cover model. Mike Hembree shot this picture in June 1985 as we climbed the Alum Cave Trail "on assignment," as reporters used to say (although I doubt that our editors let us claim our expenses), and he wrote about our adventure for The Greenville News' weekend magazine, NOTIONS.

As for Southern's opening quote, it should be atttributed to ill-fated George Mallory instead of Edmund Hillary. 
The Greenville News-Piedmont, Notions magazine, June 15, 1985

Monday, January 2, 2017

Ernie Pyle on Alum Cave Trail, Hudson Bay blankets


 Here is another newspaper column by Pulitzer Prize winner Ernie Pyle from his 1940 trip to Mount Le Conte. He vividly describes the views, the wildlife, the weather (record high 68 then vs. 81 now), and the accommodations at Le Conte Lodge ($4 then vs. $175 in 2019).
 Note that on the late-October night he stayed at the Lodge, he was the only guest.
 Pyle's guide was Wiley Oakley, the famed "Roamin' Man of the Mountains," whose home was near Le Conte Creek. They climbed the Alum Cave Trail, and it may have been at Inspiration Point that Pyle had this epiphany:
"It was then I realized, for the first time in my life, that there can be as much majesty and stirring beauty in eastern mountains as in the Rockies. Many times on the trail I just stopped and stared and stared. I don't know that I have ever seen a lovelier sight than the onward-stretching undulations of the haze-softened and color-splashed immensities of the Great Smoky Mountains."
 This was one of a series of nine columns that Pyle wrote from the Great Smoky Mountains National Park in the fall of 1940. We previously posted his profile of Jack Huff. His columns were syndicated nationwide, and I clipped this copy from the Jackson (Miss.) Daily Clarion-Ledger, published October 29, 1940.

Want to see more of Ernie Pyle's columns from the Smokies? Explore these clippings that I've posted on newspapers.com. If the links don't work, let me know.


Wednesday, December 28, 2016

Jack Huff made thousands of climbs, 1 for Mama

In 1929, 25-year-old Jack Huff strapped a chair to his back to carry his frail mother to the top of Mount Le Conte. He made the seven-mile hike in five hours, stopping only when she got tired.

 How many times did Jack Huff climb Mount Le Conte? We can only guess, since he stopped counting in 1937 after he surpassed 1,000 climbs in 11 years.
Considering that he operated Le Conte Lodge for 24 years from 1926 through 1949, it's possible that he more than doubled that total.
When I first compiled the Le Conte Log, I estimated Huff's total at 3,000. Since then, I learned that after 1949, his wife Pauline Huff  managed the mountaintop Lodge, while Jack stayed in Gatlinburg to manage his family's hotel. The Huffs sold the Lodge in 1960 to Herrick and Myrtle Brown in 1960. Considering that, I revised my estimate and now list Huff at about 2,500. 
 What we can document about Huff's hikes comes from this 1940 newspaper column by Ernie Pyle, the Pulitzer Prize-winning reporter and war correspondent who was killed in 1945 in the Battle of Okinawa. This clipping was one of a series of nationally syndicated columns Pyle filed from the Great Smoky Mountains in the weeks after President Franklin D. Roosevelt officially dedicated the new national park.
 "A mountaineer's strength is in his heart, and not necessarily in a big body," Pyle wrote. "Jack Huff weighs only 150 pounds, and stands sort of folded up with his hands in his pockets. But his walking feats are astounding." By 1940, Pyle figured that Huff had walked over 15,000 miles on the steep slopes of Le Conte, treading out the trails we follow today.
 Jack Huff is the architect of the Lodge we know today. He chose the site near the Le  Conte Spring and built the first three-room Lodge in 1933 and the dining hall in 1939. According to his daughter, Cookie Bowling, the previous campsite built by Paul Adams in 1925 was further up toward Cliff Tops. "Dad chose the site where the Lodge is today," she  said. "This is how he explained it to me."
 Jack Huff died Nov. 4, 1985, at age 82. His family still owns and operates a hotel in Gatlinburg named Jack Huff's, and I sent this clipping to them to see if they could tell me more about his exploits. Cyndi Bowling replied:
That is a wonderful article that we have not ever seen. I shared it with my mother-in-law, Cookie Bowling [Jack Huff's daughter]. She doesn't know exactly how many trips he made after he stopped counting in 1937. She said she does know he hiked many more times because she was born in 1944, and there is a story of him carrying her off the mountain. She said his last trip was in 1960 when he sold Mt. LeConte Lodge.
Speaking of President Roosevelt and his 1940 speech at Newfound Gap to dedicate the Great Smoky Mountains National Park ... one of the men who was in the presidential honor guard that day ranks among the centurions of Le Conte.
 Dr. John Adler, now 95, built the Cabins at Sandy Mush Bald, another mountaintop lodge 30 miles east of Le Conte. I had the opportunity to meet him when I hiked up Sandy Mush Bald (the highest point in Madison County, N.C.) on July 4, 2016.
 Dr. Adler told me that he used to make weekly climbs up Le Conte to deliver mail to the lodge, and before Huff sold the lodge he considered Dr. Adler as his possible replacement. Dr. Adler is confident that he has made over a hundred hikes up Le Conte, though he doesn't have an exact count.

Jack Huff's family at the Lodge in 2011

In 1953, Huff strapped on the chair for this photo in the Nashville Tennessean.

Today, the chair is displayed at the Museum of East Tennessee History in Knoxville.

Saturday, June 11, 2016

Le Conte Decant

I'm a proponent of peak-bagging, but peak-bottling is new to me. This clever photo of Mount Le Conte was taken by Ginger Rogers Farmer on June 10, 2016, from the tower at Clingman's Dome.

(Decant: to carefully pour the contents of one vessel into another without disturbing the sediments.)

Saturday, October 17, 2015

Does the photo-op count?

This is not the summit, but if you get this far I will give you credit. This 2012 hike was my 5th climb, Rick Shortt's 14th, the first for Ralph Phillips and Larry Trivette, and Mike Hembree's sixth. We hiked up the Boulevard Trail, so we bagged High Top along the way.


Peakbaggers, as we are called, can be nit-picky about how to count a mountain climbed.
 If you haven't touched the highest natural ground on the mountain, you can't count it.
 That seems simple enough, but not on Mounte LeConte. Many hikers go only as far as Le Conte Lodge and pose for pictures in front of the dining hall, where a sign declares the summit elevation of 6,593 feet above sea level. However, the altitude at the dining-room door is a shade under 6,400 feet.
 Others continue up to watch the sunset from Cliff Top, elevation 6,555. But that's not the top, either.
 The highest point on the mountain is on High Top, a third of a mile from the lodge, where the official elevation is 6,593 feet and the rock cairn occasionally tops 6,600. Unless you come up on the Boulevard Trail or go to Myrtle Point for sunrise, it's easy to miss the actual summit, where trees obscure the view.
 Ed Wright was conscientious about going all the way to High Top in 1991 when he set the one-year record of 230 climbs, but in later years he often stopped at the lodge.
 For the purposes of the Le Conte honor roll, I am making no distinction between hikes to the Lodge or to High Top. If you get as far as LeConte Lodge (five miles horizontally and a half-mile vertically from the nearest trailhead) you can count the climb on this website.

 In the same spirit, I count those who rode up on horseback. For example, Gracie McNicol's 244 ascents include 141 on foot and 103 on horseback. Gracie also walked down 28 times after riding up. She counted each of those as a half-hike, so she claimed 155 hikes. The difference is irrelevant as far as the Le Conte Log is concerned, because we are already giving her credit for all 244 ascents. 
Bring your own rock to add to the Tower of Rubble at High Top. If we can stack it 50 feet high, Le Conte (6,593) will match Clingman's Dome (6,643) for the highest rock in Tennessee. Rocky Top, indeed!

Friday, October 24, 2014

Godspeed, Dave Scanlon

There are well over 2,000 ascents represented in this 2012 picture: John and Bonnie Northrup, Chris Virden, Dave Scanlon, Nathan Kirkham, and Alan Householder
 Dave Scanlon was within a few weeks of his 1,000th hike when he he died at age 78 on Oct. 24, 2014. His final hike on Sept. 30 was #982. 
 Chris Virden wrote on the Lodge blog:
It is with great sadness we learned of the passing of our dear friend David Scanlon. He graced us with his smiling face and gentle soul almost every week. He hated to miss a Monday due to holidays or weather, so he would hike up another day during the week. He enjoyed bringing us the paper and catching up on the week's news. David was a true advocate for the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. He served as an officer on the boards of the Great Smoky Mountains Association and Discover Life in America. He was an avid hiker and completed all 900 miles of trail in the park. David was a longtime member of the Smoky Mountain Hiking Club and had the opportunity to lead many hikes for them. His knowledge of this park and its history was abundant.
We are better people for having known him in our lives. 
 Dave was a forestry graduate from N.C. State and Yale who worked for Firestone on its rubber plantations in Liberia before going to work for the Tennessee Valley Authority. 
 Here are some of Dave's hikes, mostly taken from the logs of Ed Wright or Paul Dinwiddie. I list them here to give you an idea of the pace you need to sustain to approach 1,000. 
  • #1, July 4, 1966. Met Harvey Broome. 
  • May 22, 1988. Hiked with Paul Dinwiddie on Paul's 400th trip. 
  • #123, Aug. 31, 1994.
  • #127, Sept. 19, 1994. 
  • #133, Oct. 26, 1994. 
  • #137, Oct. 3, 1994.
  • #163, April 13, 1995. 
  • #182, June 19, 1995. 
  • #183, June 23, 1995. 
  • #184, June 26, 1995. 
  • #189, Aug. 18, 1995. 
  • #197, Sept. 11, 1995. 
  • #200, Sept. 18, 1995. 
  • #201, Sept. 20, 1995. 
  • #202, Sept. 27, 1995. 
  • #204, Oct. 30, 1995. 
  • #209, Nov. 13, 1995. 
  • #210, Nov. 20, 1995. When Ed Wright's journals mention Scanlon, it's usually in the context of "I was overtaken by Dave." On this hike, Wright wrote, "Speedy VIP Dave Scanlon passed me." VIP was a title the Park gave to regular hikers like Scanlon and Wright as they patrolled the trails. 
  • #225, March 11, 1996. 
  • #226, March 13, 1996.
  • #236, May 2, 1996.  
  • #242, May 20, 1996. 
  • #248, June 17, 1996.
  • #249, June 19, 1996. 
  • #250, June 26, 1996, to celebrate his 60th birthday. 
  • #251, June 28, 1996. 
  • #255, Sept. 18, 1996. "He was involved in an automobile accident recently and hasn't hiked for several weeks," Wright wrote. 
  • #256, July 30, 1997. "He really hasn't been the same since his automobile wreck about a year ago," Wright wrote. "He said that he was no longer counting his trips to LeConte."
  • #309, Nov. 16, 1998. 
  • #354, Aug. 16, 1999. 
  • #355, Aug. 23, 1999.
  • #360, Sept. 30, 1999. 
  • #361, Oct. 5, 1999. 
  • #362, Oct. 11, 1999. 
  • #363, Oct. 18, 1999. 
  • Over 500, Aug. 8, 2002: "Dave is looking good and is even registering his trip numbers again," Wright wrote after his 1,274th trip. "He is somewhere over 500 trips." 
  • #900, May 8, 2012. "We asked him about his first trip to this magical mountain," Chris Virden wrote on the HighOnLeConte blog. "He said he remembered it as if it were yesterday. He hiked up, for the first time ,when he was 30 years old, 1966. He remembers it well because he got to meet Harvey Broome at the lodge. He listened to stories told by Mr. Broome and the then lodge operator Herrick Brown." Broome was a founder of the Wilderness Society and led the movement to form the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. His final LeConte hike was July 4, 1966.
  • #911, Aug. 5, 2012. Scanlon lit the lantern opening the 2012 LeConte Games, a spoof on the Olympics. A plaque in his honor was placed in the Lodge, alongside those honoring Ed Wright and Margaret Stevenson. 
  • #962, May 1, 2014. Nathan Kirkham wrote on the Lodge blog: "David never has a bad day up here, and is quick with a smile for all the crew and dayhikers he visits.  Without prompting, I noticed David emptying out the collected rainwater from the llama troughs--helping out a certain lodge assistant manager on a very busy morning. David was just happy to make sure the llamas wouldn't have soggy food to eat on their special Thursday trip."
  • #963, May 5, 2014. 
  • #982, Sept. 30, 2014.

Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Climbing Le Conte in a wheelchair

Reprinted from Ability Magazine, 2013

By Josh Pate
Ability magazine

It was that post-Christmas dinner hangover, when you’re so full it hurts to move. That evening Terry Tinnell’s family sat around having one of those pie-in-the-sky conversations, batting around the question: What’s the most beautiful place you’ve ever visited?
All eyes turned to Tinnell’s brother-in-law, Jim Myers, an avid outdoorsman who lives in Knoxville, TN, at the foothills of the Smoky Mountains. He’s traveled all over the world. Everyone was eager to know what his answer would be.
“Mount Le Conte,” Myers said without hesitation.
The third highest peak in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park at an elevation of 6,593 feet, Mount Le Conte is a hiker’s dream destination. It has five trails:
Alum Cave (5.5 miles, 2,560-foot net climb)
The Boulevard (8 miles, 1,080-foot net climb)
Bullhead (7.2 miles, 3,820-foot net climb)
Rainbow Falls (6.5 miles, 3,820-foot net climb)
Trillium Gap (6.5 miles, 3,300-foot net climb)
Though the site is stunning, fatalities sometimes occur as hikers try to climb to Le Conte Lodge, which is at the mountaintop. Once there however, the place is rustic and charming. The lodge is also popular. With such high demand for accommodations, the management must hold a lottery to determine who can stay overnight. Hikers, however, are welcome to bunk in outdoor shelters. (Although, bear claw indentations on a nearby restroom door are a reminder that campers may get some unexpected company during the night.)
At the lodge, dinner is served every evening at 6 pm and typically consists of a sandwich, chips and oatmeal-chocolate-chip cookies. Though a modest buffet, after hours and hours of conquering the mountain, hikers often say it’s the best meal they’ve ever eaten.
Challenges aside, there’s a reason Myers said that Mount Le Conte was the most beautiful place he’s ever visited: The views are breathtaking and serene. So when Myers mentioned the site, Tinnell piped up with some regret. Though he and his wife grew up in the Knoxville area and lived most of their lives there, they now live a good distance away from the fabled peak—just north of Atlanta.
“I’ve been all over the Smoky Mountains and, for whatever reason, we never went to Mount Le Conte, either one of us,” Tinnell told his family. “I feel bad we lived so close and I never took Cindy. Now I guess I never will.” Myers disagreed with him.
“I thought, why not?” Myers recalled. “We can do it. It’s not going to be easy, but we can accomplish this with the right equipment and people.” Tinnell had doubts.
“I looked down at my chair and back at him like, are you stupid?” Tinnell recalled. “That was the start of it. I looked around the table and saw the look in everybody’s eyes. Here was a challenge that we could attack as a group.”

CHALLENGE ACCEPTED

Tinnell, 55, uses a wheelchair following his diagnosis of T12 transverse myelitis, an inflammation of the spinal cord. He’s not one to ask for accommodations or make excuses. While the conversation occurred during the 2011 holiday season, that wasn’t the first time his family had rallied around him with sparkles in their eyes.
He had learned to play wheelchair tennis and his family went all-in to support this new hobby. He and his folks had always camped, backpacked and kayaked and about six months after he began using the chair, his wife spearheaded a camping trip just for the two of them. Tinnell was anxious. In fact, he was so nervous that his mind raced ahead, considering every aspect of the trip and how he would camp using the chair.
He was so focused on the trip that he didn’t realize his family was up to something until he and Cindy returned to discover that family and friends-about 30 people in all-had spent the weekend renovating Tinnell’s home with accessible features. The house was built in 1896, so the overhaul included a ramp out the back door, a new bathroom and a main-floor office space, which was transferred from upstairs.
“Within the nucleus of this group, I’ve seen that spark before,” Tinnell said of his extended family’s team spirit. He had a tear in his eye and a quaver in his voice. “It is impressive as well as humbling.” And so Tinnell and his family’s two-year mission to get to the top of Mount Le Conte was officially launched.
First, he and Myers needed to determine who would make the trip. Tinnell’s wife, Cindy, was a mandatory member of the crew. The fact that the couple had never been to the top of LeConte was the point of the trip. Tinnell wanted the rest of his family to go as well, so his 24-year-old daughter, Erin, came along, as did his 25-year-old son, Julian. Tinnell also invited Myers, his sister and his brother, as well as some lifelong buddies.
He only wanted family and close friends to go, but Myers convinced him the team needed some muscle along on the trip for the heavy lifting. That’s when Myers recruited a few of his kids’ friends, 20-somethings who knew how to keep going when the going gets rough.
Next step: Determine the transportation plan. Myers first thought about using a wheeled stretcher, much like the ones rolled out to rescue people from hiking trails when things go bust. Tinnell vetoed that plan.
“No way I’m doing that,” he said, “because I’m not going up there unless I help propel myself. I recognize I’m going to need help, but I want to participate.”
The group decided on a three-wheel water wheelchair because of the durability of the wheels and its ability to maneuver over rocky terrain. A water wheelchair has oversized tires and sits in a more reclined triangular position with one wheel in the front and two in the back. It is often used for beaches or to assist someone getting in or out of water through a ramped entrance.
Finally, the group had to choose the best trail to take.
“Although my sister, brother and her husband have been to Mount Le Conte every year at least a couple times over the last 20 years, every weekend they hiked a different trail, taking pictures and making a detailed account about what we could do to manage various obstacles. They decided which trail would be our best option.”
Myers admitted the decision was difficult.
“We had done the Trillium Gap trail and when you go on it and think you will be taking a wheelchair, you think, oh my gosh,” Myers said. “Then we did Bullhead. We had hiked the Boulevard so we knew it. When you start thinking about a wheelchair, you just have a totally different mind-set.
“Trillium is rough, and Bullhead is even longer and narrower, but it didn’t seem as rough. It was tough deciding, but we finally settled on Bullhead. We revisited it and then Le Conte asked us to revisit it again.”
The crew at Le Conte Lodge requested that the team review their plans to make sure it was not only doable, but also whether it was their best option. After Myers revisited Bullhead, he had second thoughts about the trail. The crew at Le Conte knew Bullhead was more difficult than it might’ve initially seemed.
“So we changed our mind and actually went with Trillium, and it ended up working out,” Myers said.
Trillium Gap is the 6.5-mile trail that climbs 3,300 feet-a rough trail that is an average length but the second steepest of the five. Still, based on Myers’ and other family members’ research, it seemed like the optimal path for the wheelchair the group had chosen. They decided to do a test run at Kennesaw Mountain, but the trail there is gravel. Mount Le Conte is pure wilderness.
Once they sorted out the logistics, the family crossed its fingers for a date to spend the night. Mount Le Conte’s lottery system opens each year on October 1, and hikers can request up to three potential dates. Tinnell wanted the management at Le Conte Lodge to know they were coming, whether they got a date or not. (Remember the cabins with the bear claw indentations?)
“Prior to October, I called the general manager at Mount Le Conte and told him what we were trying to accomplish,” Tinnell said. “He told me he couldn’t help with getting us in; it was simply the lottery system. Second, he tried extremely hard to talk us out of attacking the mountain.”
General manager Tim Line knows the dangers of hiking Le Conte. He’s from nearby Knoxville and began working at the lodge in 1977. He’s also seasoned when it comes to safety and what it takes to make it up the mountain. He’s seen people die trying to scale it, and he’s seen people who wished they’d never laid eyes on that mountain. To toss aside being politically correct for a moment, Mount Le Conte is not recommended for someone who uses a wheelchair.
“His concern was safety,” Tinnell said. “He didn’t want people to get hurt.”
He and Line went back and forth via e-mail regarding when Tinnell aimed to hike the mountain, how he planned to do it, which trail they intended to use and when the staff should expect his party so they could be prepared—just in case something went wrong.
“One of his last e-mails was, ‘I hope you’re all prepared for the task of what you’re trying to do,'” Tinnell added.
Quite frankly, every season the Le Conte Lodge staff treks down the mountain on rescue missions for people who thought they were prepared to hike the mountain but were not. Tinnell thanked Line for the advice and then got back to planning.
“It just so happened I was turning 55 on May 15, so I thought if you’ve got to go during the week, it would be cool to spend my 55th birthday at the top of Mount Le Conte. We put Wednesday, May 15, as our third choice. We put Friday night, May 17, as our first choice and Thursday night, May 16, as our second choice. They did the lottery and we got in for May 15, my birthday.”

BEAUTIFUL BIRTHDAY

To be clear, the hike up and back down wasn’t all cake and champagne. It took the group seven-and-a-half hours to hike a trail that people typically complete in less than five hours. Still, the time was faster than Myers anticipated. He knew the journey would be difficult and he was right. In Tinnell’s words: “My brother in-law, Jim, is smarter than me, so I should have known when he was intimidated that I should have been nervous.
“I had no understanding of how difficult it was going to be,” Tinnell continued. “As an example, one gentleman who went with us is 30 and an exercise fanatic. He does hiking-trail marathons as if traditional marathons are not difficult enough! He told me at the top of Le Conte that that was the most difficult thing he’d ever done.”
Myers knew the trip up with Tinnell would be rough, but he relied on advice from one of his hunting buddies to keep him on task.
“One of the guys I hunt with is an Army vet who served in Vietnam,” Myers explained. “I’ve been in the woods with him numerous times and when something would go south, I’d be ready to go back to the house and he would say, ‘We’re infantry. We’re going to adapt and overcome.’ I entered May 15 with that attitude: This isn’t going to go smoothly. Things will happen, but we’re going to adapt on the fly and complete the task.”
It was a grueling seven-and-a-half hours up the mountain. Tinnell wore out a new set of gloves on the way up as he pushed the wheels whenever he could. Other times, the group had to “bench press” him and his chair over 3-foot-tall boulders along the trail. The team welded a crossbar behind the chair so that more than one person could push while going up.
Near the top, the trail opens to a grassy clearing where hikers simply stroll the last few yards to the lodge. It was perfect weather for a perfect day: 66 degrees and one of the clearest days Le Conte had seen all season. When you’ve made it to the clearing, you’re home free and Tinnell’s party was thrilled to have arrived there. Myers said that last mile was slow motion because everyone was fatigued and they knew they had time to spare before darkness set in.
Once Tinnell and his party reached the clearing, the entire lodge staff and guests for that night awaited them, clapping and cheering. They took pictures with Tinnell, peppering him with questions, eager to be a part of his experience. He and his party of hikers were lauded like rock stars!
The first person to congratulate Tinnell was Line, the lodge’s general manager who had urged Tinnell to reconsider.
Nathan Kirkham, assistant site manager at Le Conte Lodge, wrote the following on the staff’s May 16, 2013, blog:
“Terry Tinnell, with the help of 14 strong friends and a service dog named, Cocoa, became the only person we know of who reached Le Conte Lodge in a wheelchair.”
Kirkham’s blog went on to echo Line’s warnings of the treacherous conditions of climbing the mountain.
“The success rate for such attempts is abysmal in this inherently dangerous pursuit,” Kirkham wrote. “Le Conte Lodge general manager Tim Line, who has been affiliated with the lodge since 1977, can remember no other happy endings when someone attempted the top in a wheelchair.”
The words offer a chilling reminder that the feat Tinnell’s crew accomplished is not for everyone. The hikers who had passed the group earlier that day knew that, too. Other hikers told Tinnell they heard he was on his way up and wanted to meet him. Day hikers, who had planned to go back down the mountain that afternoon, waited around until they’d had a chance to meet him.
“A lot of the people had passed us on the trail, but I didn’t expect them to be waiting for us or to give us such a warm welcome,” said Tinnell’s daughter, Erin.
“It was beautiful,” she went on. “That moment when we got there and saw those people applauding us, we knew we did it. We weren’t just proud of ourselves, but other people noticed what we did, too. We wanted to let people know if something happens in your life that isn’t so great, you can still live your life and do things you’ve always wanted to do.”
“It was overwhelming,” Erin recalled. “We were exhausted and tired but had a feeling of accomplishment. People we didn’t know were saying “congratulations,” and that they were glad we were there. It was gratifying to see how it impacted their lives. All these people were telling me afterward that my dad is such an inspiration and a hero, and I’m thinking he’s always been my hero.”
Tinnell spent time talking with several of the guests, as well as the lodge staff and then, his family celebrated his 55th birthday in style. “We unwound pretty good that night,” Myers laughed.

HALFWAY POINT

The next morning, however, they had to go back the way they’d come.
“I thought going up would be a complete effort and coming down would be a breeze,” Tinnell recalled. “It did take more effort going up, but coming down was equally challenging.”
Mount-Le-Conte
Heading back down the mountain, he was inches from going over the side of Mount Le Conte, bringing to mind all the worrisome warnings that go along with attempting such a climb-wheelchair or not.
On the trip up the mountain, people had pulled and pushed Tinnell. Going down, members of the group walked in front, pointing out rocks and ditches in the terrain, while one person guided the chair.
“I had the thought coming down that I was so tired from the day before that if the chair got away from me, I didn’t know if I could control it,” said Myers, who was the first to push Tinnell on the way down. “I was that fatigued. It wasn’t long afterward that one of the young people almost lost Terry.”
Tinnell recalled the scare.
“We were about 3 to 4 inches from the edge of the trail on the left,” he remembered. “It dropped off about 80-90 feet there. The right tire hit a rock and threw me up, causing the front wheel to turn sharply to the left. I started over the side of the mountain, but I saw a tree limb and grabbed it with both hands, letting go of the chair. The guy pushing me grabbed the same limb with his left hand and the chair with his right. We dangled in the air.”
Five members of the group bolted to the rescue, while Tinnell’s wife and sister were in shock. It struck them that all the beauty of the previous day could be erased in a heartbeat.
“I didn’t think I was going to die, but I thought if something happened, it would be painful and really bad,” Tinnell said.
Working together, his group steered both men and the chair back to safety. They collected themselves, tried to calm down and ultimately carried on.
“It got our adrenaline going, but we all had a successful outcome,” Tinnell said. He lived to tell the one about hanging from a tree limb 80 or 90 feet up.
Tinnell defied the long odds, but whenever the subject comes up, he first gives credit to his crew of family and close friends who joined him on the journey. The most important member of that party is his wife, Cindy, with whom he always wanted to share the experience.
Now, Tinnell has an answer when someone asks: “What’s the most beautiful place you’ve been?”
“Of course, at this point, it’s Mount Le Conte,” he said laughing. “In addition to the location, it was the process of what that group of folks did for me in combination with the sheer beauty of that mountain and the Smoky Mountains as a whole.
“Our motto was FFA,” Tinnell continued. “If you choose the right friends, family and attitude, you can climb any mountain.”

Monday, January 2, 2012

Ernest Luallen, #141, died at Arch Rock

 Ernest Luallen was one of the most frequent visitors to the top of Le Conte in the 1980s, with 141 summit hikes.
On Jan. 2, 1992, Luallen, Paul Dinwiddie, and Bill Sharp were on their way down the Alum Cave Bluff Trail and were about 30 minutes from the trailhead when Luallen, 69 years old, collapsed at Arch Rock.
 Dinwiddie wrote in his journal: 
Lu had acted normal in every way until he suddenly collapsed while talking. I don't believe that he had any warning or knew what happened. I believe that he died instantly. We had made it to the lodge, somewhat later than usual. Lu told me to go on ahead at the double steps. Lu arrived about 10 minutes later than I, around 3 p.m. We had to use our lights about 1/4 mile before Arch Rock. Lu was in front, Bill was next and I was last. Just as we were about to enter the arch, Bill turned his light to the right and I saw Lu lying there. Lu was always a little awkward and I thought that he has slipped and fell. I called to him and asked if he was alright. He made no reply. When I got to him, I knew that something bad was wrong. I told Bill to hurry down the trail and drive to the Ranger Station for help. Lu was facing the rock and his hands were pinned under and between the rock and I couldn't feel his pulse. I couldn't turn him on his back because of his pack. I managed to unstrap the left shoulder strap and pull the pack away from his back. With considerable effort, I was able to roll him over on his back and straighten his limbs. I could get no pulse. It was 2 hours before the first ranger arrived. He told me to go on down after giving me Lu's keys to start Lu's car so that I could warm up. I met several rangers as I went down and one stayed at the parking lot. After they brought Lu off, they told me to follow the ambulance to the Sevierville hospital to help them with their report. 
There is an outcropping near the 4-mile mark on the Alum Cave Bluff Trail that Ed Wright nicknamed Lu's Pulpit, in memory of his friend.
Luallen was in a group of 15 hikers who accompanied Wright on his 500th Le Conte ascent July 16, 1989. Wright wrote that he got a big hug from Amie, a member of the Lodge crew. "Lu asked Amie if she would hug him when he made his 500th hike to Le Conte," Wright wrote. "She said no."


Deaths on Mount Le Conte

There have been several deaths on the trails of Mount Le Conte. 
  • Dr. Charles H. Lindsley, age 72, of Asheville was hiking with a a group from Asheville School Jan. 30, 1971, when he slipped and fell off the upper section of the Alum Cave Bluff Trail. For 40 years, his friend Pop Hollandsworth held a memorial hike each January. Dr. Lindsley was a research chemist and a graduate of Princeton. 
  • Brad Lavies, 13, from Adamsvile AL, was fatally injured in a fall near Rainbow Falls on March 31, 1993. 
  • Dr. John McCallie Bolinger, 55, of Chattanooga, suffered a fatal heart attack while climbing Le Conte on June 2, 2005.
  • There were evidently two deaths in 2008. I don't have full details, but in November, a hiker fell from Cliff Tops, and in December, another hiker suffered a heart attack or hypothermia and was found face down in the snow a half-mile from the Lodge.
  • Philip Basset Davenport, 47, of Nashville, was hiking down the Alum Cave trail  July 15, 2017, after spending the night at the Le Conte Lodge, when he suffered a fatal heart attack about three miles from the trailhead.